Long Haired Dachshund Grooming : A Step-by-Step Coat Care Guide.

Master Long Haired Dachshund Grooming with our step-by-step coat care guide. Learn brushing, bathing, and trimming techniques to keep your pup healthy, mat-free, and gorgeous.

That glorious, silky fringe on your long-haired dachshund’s ears. The elegant flag of a tail. That sleek, flowing coat along their back—it’s what sets them apart. But suppose you’ve ever found yourself staring at a tiny, stubborn mat behind their ear or wondering why they suddenly resemble a scruffy mop. In that case, you know that beauty comes with a responsibility.

I’ve been there. I’ve seen the “I’d rather be napping” look in a doxie’s eyes during brush time. I’ve also felt the heart-dropping panic of finding a hidden tangle too close to the skin. However, after many years of grooming and having groomed two of my long-haired animals myself, I have discovered a secret: grooming is not a task; grooming is the ultimate bonding experience. Now it is your personal time to ensure that your dog is healthy, to pay attention to them, and to make sure that that signature coat is in modeling condition.

This step-by-step manual is sure to lead you through every stage of grooming a long-haired dachshund. A quick brush is not what we are talking about. We are going in-depth with a complete guide of coat care that is sure to make you an unsure owner into a confident caretaker. Let’s get started.

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Why Your Long-Haired Dachshund’s Coat is Unique (And Demands Special Attention)

You can’t care for something properly if you don’t understand it. The long-haired dachshund’s coat isn’t just the short, wiry hair of their smooth cousins that grew longer. It’s a fundamentally different type of coat, inherited from spaniel crosses in their distant ancestry.

They have a soft coating that is wavy with those lovely feathers around the ears, on the chest, behind the legs and under the belly. This feathering is beautiful, though it is also too good a catch to debris, moisture, and tangles. It has a single coat, unlike a double-coated coated, but it is thick. This means:

• It mats easily: The fine hairs love to clump together, especially in high-friction areas like the armpits and behind the ears.
• It traps everything: Dirt, twigs, and those pesky “hitchhiker” seeds can get caught and work their way down to the skin.
• It’s a barometer of health: A dull, brittle, or thinning coat can be one of the first signs of nutritional deficiencies, allergies, or underlying health issues.

A study published in the Journal of Animal Physiology and Animal Nutrition has highlighted the direct link between diet, specifically essential fatty acids, and coat quality in dogs. A healthy coat starts from the inside out.

The Essential Grooming Toolkit: Your Arsenal for a Beautiful Coat

You are not going to attempt to paint a masterpiece with a rusty brush. The appropriate tools to do the job make the process safer, faster and more comfortable for your dog. This is what you require:

• A High-Quality Slicker Brush: This is your workhorse. Look for one with fine, bent pins and a protective tip. It’s perfect for daily detangling and removing loose undercoat.
• A Stainless Steel Comb: This is your truth-teller. After brushing, the comb should glide through the coat to the skin without catching. If it snags, you’ve found a hidden mat. A comb with both wide- and fine-toothed sides is ideal.
• Canine Shampoo and Conditioner: Never use human shampoo. A dog’s skin has a different pH. Invest in a gentle, moisturizing formula. For these guys, a conditioner is non-negotiable—it reduces static, detangles, and keeps the hair silky.
• Blunt-Tipped Scissors: Essential for carefully trimming around sensitive areas like the paws, sanitary region, and for carefully snipping out small mats if necessary. Blunt tips prevent accidental pokes.
• A Dog-Specific Nail Clipper: I prefer a guillotine-style or a grinder like a Dremel. Overgrown nails alter a dachshund’s gait and can contribute to back problems over time.
• Dog Toothbrush and Toothpaste: Oral health is part of overall health. Daily brushing is the gold standard.

The Step-by-Step Grooming Process: A Ritual of Care

This is the core of our long-haired dachshund grooming routine. Set aside 30-45 minutes of quiet time. Have your tools laid out and some high-value treats on hand. Patience is your most important tool.

Step 1: The Pre-Bath Brush-Out (The Most Important Step)

Never, ever bathe a matted dog.  Water will tighten any existing mats into solid, impenetrable felt-like pads against the skin. This is painful and often requires shaving.

1. Start with the Slicker Brush: Begin at the head and work your way back, following the direction of hair growth. Use short, gentle strokes. Pay special attention to the feathering on the ears, legs, and chest. Lift the front legs to get the armpits.
2. Follow with the Comb: This is your quality check. Section the hair and run the comb from the skin all the way to the end of the hair. If it catches, don’t yank. Hold the hair at the base near the skin to avoid pulling on it, and gently work the comb through the tangle from the tips inward.
3. Dealing with Mats: For small mats, you can often tease them apart with your fingers or the tip of the comb. For stubborn ones, hold the base of the mat firmly and carefully use your blunt-tipped scissors to slice the mat parallel to the skin into several pieces. This often allows you to brush it then out. If a mat is large or very close to the skin, it’s time to call a professional groomer.

Step 2: The Bathing Ritual

1. Prep: Place a non-slip mat in the tub or sink. Use lukewarm water—not hot.
2. Wet Thoroughly: Completely saturate the coat, right down to the skin. This can take a few minutes with a dense coat.
3. Lather and Massage: Apply a quarter-sized amount of shampoo and work it into a rich lather. Start at the neck and work back, massaging down to the skin. This feels good for them and cleans effectively. Avoid the eyes and inner ears.
4. Rinse, Rinse, Rinse: Any leftover shampoo residue will cause skin irritation and a dull coat. Rinse until the water runs completely clear.
5. Condition: Apply conditioner, focusing on the long feathering. Let it sit for a few minutes as the label directs, then rinse thoroughly again.

Step 3: The Dry and Final Brush

How you dry your dog is crucial for preventing mats and achieving that beautiful, straight flow.

1. Towel Dry: Gently squeeze (don’t rub) the coat with a highly absorbent towel or a microfiber towel. Rubbing can create tangles.
2. Blow-Dry on Cool: If your dog tolerates it, use a hair dryer on the coolest setting. As you dry, use your slicker brush to gently “line brush” the coat. This means brushing small, horizontal sections of hair upward and drying it from the roots out, which creates volume and ensures no damp spots are left to cause skin issues or mildew.
3. The Final Touch: Once completely dry, go over the entire coat one more time with your comb. It should glide through effortlessly. This is when the coat is at its most stunning.

Beyond the Basics: Trimming & Sanitary Care

This breed does not and should not be given a full haircut, as it will spoil the texture of the coat. Nevertheless, they are trimmed strategically to keep them clean and comfortable.

• Paw Pads: Carefully trim the hair growing between the paw pads with your blunt scissors. This improves traction and prevents snow/ice balls in winter.
• Sanitary Area: Keep the hair around the genitals and anus short for hygiene.
• Feathering Neatening: You can lightly trim the ends of the feathering on the ears, chest, and legs to give a neater appearance, but avoid cutting too much. The goal is to maintain the natural silhouette.

Common Grooming Mistakes to Avoid

• Skipping Brush-Outs: A quick brush on the surface doesn’t cut it. You need to get to the skin.
• Shaving Your Dachshund: Unless for a specific medical procedure, never shave a long-haired dachshund. It can permanently alter the texture and growth pattern of their coat, and it removes their natural protection from the sun and elements.
• Neglecting Ears and Teeth: Their floppy ears need weekly checking and cleaning with a vet-approved solution. Daily teeth brushing prevents painful dental disease.
• Rushing the Process: This creates stress for both of you. Make it calm, positive, and reward heavily with treats and praise.

Conclusion: Grooming as an Act of Love

Mastering long-haired dachshund grooming is more than just maintaining a pretty appearance. It is a preventive health care, a preemptive measure to health and comfort and a depth of strengthening the relationship with your unique and wonderful dog. Running your hands over their coat is to see whether they have a lump, bump, tick, or dry skin. They are dependent on you.

By following this comprehensive coat care guide, you’re not just preventing mats—you’re ensuring your long-haired dachshund is as healthy and happy on the outside as they are on the inside. The result? A gorgeous, healthy dog and the deep satisfaction of knowing you’re providing the very best care.

What’s your biggest challenge when grooming your long-haired dachshund? Share your experiences and questions in the comments below—let’s learn from each other!

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

1. How often should I bathe my long-haired dachshund?

It only requires a complete bath at a 4-6 week interval, or whenever they become very dirty. Excessive bathing may cause the loss of the natural oils on the coat, resulting in dry skin and a coarse coat. The brushing in between baths is much more significant in taking care of the coat’s health.

2. My dog hates being brushed. What can I do?

Start slow and make it positive. Begin with very short sessions of just a minute or two, and pair every brush stroke with a high-value treat and ample praise. Let them sniff the tools first. The goal is to build a positive association. In extreme cases, a professional force-free dog trainer can assist with the desensitization.

3. Are there any specific health conditions related to their coat that I should watch for?

Yes. Their beautiful feathers can lure water into the ears, and they will mostly develop ear infections. It is important to check the ears once a week.. They also tend to have skin allergies that can present as excessive itching, reddening or hot spots. Visiting the vet should always be done because of any sudden changes in the quality of the coat.

4. Is it okay to use a de-shedding tool like a Furmina on a long-haired dachshund?

I generally advise against it. The long-haired dachshund has a single coat, and aggressive de-shedding tools can be too harsh, potentially damaging and cutting the topcoat. A slicker brush and comb are much safer and more effective for this coat type.

5. What if I find a large mat that I can’t remove?

If a mat is large, very tight, or loose to the skin, do not attempt to cut it out with scissors. It’s incredibly easy to cut the thin, stretched skin underneath accidentally. Your safest option is to take your dog to a professional groomer. They have the training and tools (like clippers with a safeguard) to remove it without causing injury.

Disclaimer: The article is informational and educational only. It is not meant to replace professional veterinary care, diagnosis and treatment. Ask your veterinarian or a professional groomer any questions you might have about the health or the grooming requirements of your pet.